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Cantina Feliz Serves Up Mexican Food With Flair

However, small portions left reviewer wondering 'where's the beef?'

If any recent restaurant start-up in the ’burbs has a more qualified pedigree            than the brand-new Cantina Feliz, I don’t know of it. Cantina Feliz’s chef, Tim Spinner, is the longtime protégé of one of Philly’s most respected, indeed revered chef-owners, Jose Garces. Spinner has worked at Garces’ side since 2003, eventually taking over the kitchen at Amada no less; and most recently was chef de cuisine at the popular Distrito.

Along with Distrito’s beverage director, Brian Sirhal, Spinner just opened Cantina Feliz last week in the spot that had briefly been Alison Two, and that for a much longer run had been the more casual Tex-Mex, Marita’s Cantina, near SEPTA’s Fort Washington station.

But experience told me that the past reputations of the key players would not guarantee a first-rate overall dining experience at their new establishment, nor its success. In this same location, Alison Barshak’s Alison Two had a very short half-life, though this may, in part, have been due to the location’s poor street visibility below the overpass and behind Phil’s Deli.

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What I found was a new operation that was still a bit rough around the edges. This was understandable…Cantina Feliz had only been open three days before my party of four came on a Sunday evening. The serving staff of young men and women, all dressed in logo-imprinted black T-shirts and black slacks, are young and somewhat inexperienced, or at least not yet well-versed in the Cantina’s systems, menus, and details.

One young man, on delivering my order of “Caldo de Res,” short ribs and garbanzo beans in a red chile beef broth ($14), asked, “Who gets the beef stew?”  It took me a moment or two to realize he was referring to my entrée choice.

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Another was not knowledgeable of the main ingredients of mole sauce, the key feature of another tablemate Sue’s pick, “Mole Poblano” ($16). And the dish’s chicken was incorrectly described as “on the bone.”

The kitchen stumbled that night too. As we were ordering our main course from among the only five entrée selections, we were informed that it was out of two of them, including the Black Bass ($24) which dining companion, Alan, was counting on having previewed the menu on the Internet. The restaurant had been sold out the previous night – I could not get a reservation that night. This should not happen, especially when there are only five dishes (not including tacos and enchiladas) to choose from.

And then, we had to wait an unacceptably long time between the appetizers and entrées.

But all was certainly not amiss. On arriving, we found that the three dining rooms were filled, lively, and humming with excitement. The primary colors of Mexico, the light from the pierced tin wall sconces and ceiling spots, and colorful large murals made for a very pleasing ambiance. 

My classic margarita made with Sauza brand tequila ($7) was great, as were a couple of special pineapple margaritas, and my LDC’s Feliz Cosmo made with pomegranate juice. A very generous serving of excellent guacamole, with smoky chipotle salsa and crisp tortilla chips also won our enthusiastic kudos. An appetizer, a Mexican take on shrimp cocktail ($9) was spicy good and filled with medium shrimp ceviche, avocado and scallion in a light tomato sauce. Eight other starters on the menu and the quality margaritas will go far to entice me back for a future happy hour.

Happily, though disappointed by not getting his first choice, Alan was rewarded by the delicious NY Strip steak ($25), prepared with superb chimichurri and adobo sauce, and a creamed spinach infused with bone marrow and chipotle chili. This dish gave clear proof of Spinner’s prowess in front of the stove.

The sliced flank steak my LDC had in her “Alcarbon Taco” was grilled to a perfect medium rare, and served with a covered bowl containing three soft flour tacos ($17), accompanied by chopped onion and cilantro, salsa, and one of the best examples of refried beans you’ll find anywhere. It was puree smooth, and also had that wonderful smoky chipotle flavor I love, and Spinner seems to favor. Too bad it was but a small side.

The most well-rounded platter was the “Mole Poblano” ($15), with several filets of organic chicken breast, seasoned with pomegranate and sesame seeds, blanketed in the dark brown chocolate-based sauce that is mole, and surrounded by white Mexican rice and cone-shaped chunks of sweet fried plantain.

My aforementioned short ribs and garbanzo beans had a similar effect. The four little slices of beef, laid like islands floating in a tangy sea of red chili sauce and beans, were tender and tasteful, but hardly enough for a main course. I thought: “where’s the beef?” - charge me a few more dollars if need be, but put more in this dish. 

We four shared two desserts, both a necessary sweet finish after all the savory salt and spice. The warm apple and guava tart is the way I like apple pie, crumbly with small pieces of fruit. “Mexican Chocolate Crema” is an inspired combination of dreamy chocolate pudding topped with crème fraiche and spicy caramel peanut popcorn. 

Overall Rating:  mmm  (out of 5 m’s) sparks of excellence, and rough edges that will hopefully be smoothed.           

Location: 424 S. Bethlehem Pike, Fort Washington Phone: 215.646.1320 Web site: Under construction                            

Cuisine: Contempo & Traditional Mexican

Hours: Lunch: Daily: 11:30 a.m. – 3 p.m. 
Dinner: Mon - Fri 5 - 9:30 p.m., Sat, Sun 4 - 10:30 p.m.

Dinner Prices: Apps., Soups, Salads $6 - $14;  Entrées, $14 - $25; Tacos, Enchiladas $10 - $17

Ambiance: Lively buzz, colorful Mexican décor, spot lighting.

Reservations: Urged on weekends                        

Credit Cards: Visa & Mastercard accepted

Alcoholic Beverages: Full service bar, cervesas, margaritas, cocktails, wines, and a selection of just under 50 top shelf tequilas, plus tequila flights 

Wheelchair Access: Yes, via a ramp.

You can e-mail Mitch Davis

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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